![]() Try to identify tree species that naturally grew on or near your site before the first logging.If you are interested in planting a particular tree species, it is important to determine whether it is adapted to grow on your site, based on the site’s soils, climate, and other factors. Your county Extension forester can also answer additional questions that you may have. For information on short-term (15 years or less) reforestation goals such as fiber production or growing Christmas trees and other crops, please refer to publications focused on those subjects. For information on other topics essential to successful reforestation (for example, site preparation, proper planting technique, and follow-up vegetation control), see the list of Extension publications below. ![]() The focus of this publication is on selecting trees suitable for long-term health and productivity. Part 3 provides tips on finding and ordering seedlings.Part 2 discusses choosing nursery-grown stock with the right qualities to survive and show good initial growth.Part 1 describes selecting trees that are adapted for good, long-term growth under your local conditions.To help answer these questions, we have divided this publication into three parts: ![]() What types of seedlings are suitable for my site?.To ensure success, you first must answer several key questions: Reforesting your harvested timberland or growing a forest on your nontimber land requires more than just selecting and planting a few trees and hoping they will grow. The bags will then be covered with a tarp to protect them from rain or dry air. If done properly, however, the tree will recover.Figure 9: For a two-hour drive in overcast, 35-degree weather, these seedlings are placed in a pickup bed with a plastic bed liner. Expect some branch or tip dieback to appear the next growing season. It is not easy for trees that have warmed up to room temperature to endure the elements outdoors. Soil mixes are also typically much lighter and may not support the weight of ice, snow or the forces of wind during the winter period without staking. Better long-term survival results from using the native soil in which the tree will have to grow in. Preparing a backfill from a bagged soil mix is not advised. Transplanting should be done when the weather is mild and not excessively cold or windy. A skirt can be used to hide the plastic.Īfter 5 days of indoor enjoyment, the decorations should be removed and the tree placed into a cool area for about one week prior to transplanting outdoors. With the pan underneath the root ball, cover the top with a sheet of plastic to retard rapid drying. A drastic change of conditions will cause more problems than slower changes in temperature and water supply. If the ball is frozen when taken home, let it warm up gradually in a cool room, like an unheated garage, before bringing it into the house. Avoid handling the ball when it is wet because it is likely to break apart. Place the soil ball in a shallow pan and place a small amount of water in it. When brought home, make sure that the soil ball is kept moist. Living trees are commonly purchased as “balled and burlapped”, meaning that the root system is in a ball and it has been covered with a burlap materials to keep it together. ![]() To be kept in prime condition, a living tree should be in the house no more than 3 to 5 days and positioned away from heat sources and drafts like with cut trees. The biggest problem with living trees is the foliage drying out. If you plan to keep a tree up for several weeks, do not consider a living tree. The key to successfully maintaining a living tree and enabling its survival outside once the holiday passes is proper care.
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